A Cookbook for the Vegan Gourmet

 

Lee Hall’s Review of Linda Long’s Great Chefs Cook Vegan appears in the North American Vegetarian Society’s Vegetarian Voice (Vo. 30, No.1; Winter 2008-09), at page 26. Reprinted here with permission.

Great Chefs Cook Vegan

Some will see the cover photo of this spectacular book (a soup by Thomas Keller) and exclaim, "That cannot be vegan!" But the title tells all, in splendid simplicity: Great Chefs Cook Vegan.

The book showcases recipes from 25 of the highest award-winning chefs, prepared in thirteen cities in their classic restaurants. This is not a who’s-who of vegan chefs, but of all chefs. Linda Long challenged the most respected names in the mainstream culinary field to bring their expertise to pure vegetarian cuisine.

Each section is dedicated to one of these renowned chefs, who prepares a three- or four-course meal. We follow this adventure, guided by Long’s photographs of the chefs and each of their vegan creations. The ratio is about one page of print to one page with a photograph. The book is heroic on the grounds of the stories and photos themselves.

Then there is the food! Dan Barber’s Cauliflower Steak with Quinoa (page 70) comprises browned cross-sections of a cauliflower head served over a bed of quinoa blended with apple and vegetables, and the plate is drizzled with an oil of puréed, fresh basil. Yes, there are easy-to-follow instructions on how to plate the dishes, and stunning close-ups of the courses.

It’s hard to choose a stand-out dessert from a book in which each recipe is exceptional; but drift dreamily through the pages to 242, and there you’ll find Terrance Brennan’s Pear “Belle Helen” Chocolate Soup and Cinnamon Croutons. This serves a party of six, using three Bartlett pears, each holding a generous spoonful of gelato made with soy yogurt, and gently scattered croutons (toasted with hazelnut oil and cinnamon). A bit of soup made with bittersweet chocolate and poured onto the bottom of the bowl becomes the setting for the pear half.

Linda Long has been a committed vegan for thirty years, and we can all be thankful for it. There is much to learn about splendid cuisine in this book; those who thought vegans could not aspire to such conversation will raise their expectations.

Great Chefs Cook Vegan is unique: an inspiration and a treasure. And yet so affordably priced, for a hardcover book of this quality, one can get an extra as a gift. With holidays coming up... perhaps an extra two.

Lee Hall, VeganMeans.com