Manna: Heavenly Indeed

Restaurant review by Lee Hall. Photos: Catriona Gold

Hidden away in a quiet street in Primrose Hill, north of central London, is one of the nicest fully vegetarian restaurants one could ever hope to find. Manna is actually a long-established restaurant, but its fame is as understated as its interior design. An enjoyable walk from the Chalk Farm Underground stop, it’s the perfect spot for a break during a day of browsing at Camden Market.

The restaurant’s walls are wrapped in a soothing arboreal motif; the furnishings are simple and woody. The menu is…wow. Cosmopolitan and exciting. Daily specials are produced “with a seasonal emphasis on soulfully balanced and detoxifying combinations.” Just say “yes.” You’ll be pleased with the offerings.

Everything on the menu is vegan and identified as such. Some items are gluten-free; these are marked, and items that contain nuts are marked as such.

The menu will not be the same from visit to visit. The seasonal menu could include a halloumi with wild rice and pistachios, a raw pad thai in white almond sauce, or a brinjal bhaji consisting of a large portobello mushroom stuffed with curried aubergine, spinach and cashew cheese served with sweet chutney.

Raw offerings might include a Thai green curry: marinated summer vegetables tossed in a sweet, spicy sauce of banana, avocado, lemon grass, and kaffir lime leaf, served with riced parsnip, fresh coconut, radish sprouts and a date puree. Oh, yes.

Now, having arrived (with reservations) on early Sunday afternoon, I was tempted to order the ravioli filled with wild mushroom and walnut pâté with fennel cream sauce and sundried tomato pesto... And yet, Manna's tradition is the Sunday roast of the week, so I ordered that.

The wait was brief and enjoyable, helped along by an exquisite tempura (in photo) of marinated tempeh and oyster mushrooms with pickled Japanese coleslaw and a delightful red hoisin sauce, as I perused a guest book full of joyful commentary from people from many places worldwide who had come here and sat in the same seat.

My main course was a hearty mixed hazelnut, cashew and herb roast served with a bright-golden gravy, fresh, roasted potatoes, broccoli and asparagus (in photo). The roasts and sausages do not have the look or taste of “mock meat”; they are simply the protein focus of the meal, but made of fresh, creative combinations. Consider the organic fennel and pumpkin seed sausages on a summer mash with green onions and carrots, purple sprouting broccoli, with a jus of red wine, leek and thyme.

The chef's salad with crisp marinated tofu is always available, although the vegetables change with the season. My dining companion, Catriona Gold of The VeganSociety, ordered this one. It had citrusy artichokes and caper berries (oh! Are these good!), and roasted golden beetroot, fresh edamame, potato salad, carrot, avocado, balsamic roasted onions, sun-blushed tomatoes, green beans and alfalfa sprouts on a mixed leaf salad. And there was the homemade organic bread with extra virgin olive oil (you can get it with the homemade beetroot hummus for £2 extra).

Catriona was happy with the choice and happier still with the dessert: banoffe trifle. “There are no words to describe this masterpiece!” said Catriona. Well, there is a word: wow.

It’s a tall parfait with layers of rich chocolate cake, sliced bananas, custard and toffee, topped off with whipped cream, toasted, slivered almonds, and fresh raspberries and blueberries. Oh, good heavens.

We could have also had the cake of the from the restaurant’s certified organic bakery and liqueur vice cream—topped with a shot of organic amaretto or cognac.

You can take it with you: The petits fours—truffles, chocolates and small biscuits—are available for sale.

I just cannot stop thinking about those caper berries….

Manna Vegetarian Restaurant
4 Erskine Road, London (Underground: Chalk Farm)
020 7722 8028
Open Tue-Fri 6:30pm-10:30pm; Weekends 12pm-10:30pm
For information on prices and the latest menus, see: www.mannav.com
Twitter: @mannarestaurant
On Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/manna-restaurant/39025664131